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This is basically an overview on making a porcelain doll. Look for our up coming tutorials about porcelain doll making. If you are in the Tucson Arizona area we would love for you to join us. Please "click" on the "Questions about Porcelain" and email your questions or comments.
 
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These beautifully made tapestry bags are fully lined. The bag has a large inside pocket split in two. The bag is 15" wide; 13"  tall  and 3 1/2" deep. There is 0 left. $29.95  SOLD OUT

 New 6" doll kit
This set of three adorable babies includes three free cloth bodies, rompers, and hats!
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Questions about Porcelain
If you have any questions about porcelain doll making please "click" the "Questions about Porcelain"
 Pouring Dolls

The first thing you'll need to make a porcelain doll is a mold, slip and a kiln. It is not necessary to have molds and slip, but you will need a kiln. You may also order greenware to eliminate this process.

  1. Lets start. What you will do first is mix the slip without creating too many bubbles. Strain many times to eliminate all the air bubbles that form. Let the slip sit for 24hours. The next day strain a few more times to be sure that you have removed as many of the air bubbles that you can.
  2. In the mean time prepare the molds. Make sure the mold is clean and blow out all the debris that may be in the mold. Spray distilled water in the mold (both sides). Don't want a bone dry mold. Once the mold is sprayed you are ready to band the mold together and pour.
  3. Pour out of a pitcher(better control). Pour in a steady stream, do not stop otherwise you will get hesitation marks, pour to the top. When you see that the slip has gone down a litte in the mold, you will then "top off" meaning, pour the slip back up to the top. At this point you will wait until you get a thickness of about 1/8". Depending on the dryness or humidity, it could take shorter or longer to set up.  
  4. When you are satisfied with the thickness, it is time to empty out the mold. Becareful not to "glug", you will need to pour out the slip in a slow but steady stream. Sometimes you will need a straw to blow into the mold, otherwise the clay may collapse inside the mold. Keep the mold up side down and let it drain. When the mold has drained, you can lay it on its side and wait until the slip is in a "leather hard" state. You will learn as you keep pouring.
  5. The piece will release from the mold very easily when it is READY!!  DON'T force the mold!! After the greenware has come out of the mold you may cut out the eyes or at least make starter holes in the eyes. The head or piece needs to dry. At this point you may do some cleaning. When your piece has dried it is time to "soft fire".  
 Cleaning SFGW
  1. We are now ready to wet clean our soft fired greenware(SFGW). Take a container, I like warm water and fill it up to cover your SFGW. When the water has filled your container slowly put the SFGW into the water. No gurguling!! That causes pressure inside the SFGW and it can cause it to break.
  2. Ater the SFGW has soaked for about 5-10 minutes, you will be ready to clean. I still use the pink scrubbie(not available any longer) to clean with. There are a few different ways to clean your SFGW. I tell my students to use what makes them feel comfortable. You can use the pink scrubbie, scalpel, wooden toothpick and/or a cleaning brush.
  3.  After the seams have been removed, it is time to do the fine details. This is the most important part of the doll making process.  If you don't get out all the imperfections, scratches, pinholes your piece will not be right after it has been fired.
  4. The SFGW needs to be polished to remove all the scratches and the piece will need the detail put back on the SFGW. When you feel satisfied about the SFGW. Let it dry and check for flaws, if none are found you are ready to high fire your SFGW. Place the piece in the kiln after it has dried and set up the kiln as described in the kiln book and fire.
 Painting Your Doll
  1. Once the kiln has cooled off, when you can put your hand on top of the kiln. We have a tendency to want to open the kiln  as soon as possible. If you open the kiln too soon you may crack the fired piece.
  2. When the doll has cooled, it's time to paint! The first thing we do is sand the doll with a scrubbie, not the pink scrubbie, but a square sander on some foam. It is very flexible so that you can get into all the nooks and crannies.
  3. Once you have sanded the doll, you can either rinse off at sink, or what we do is saturate a cotton ball with rubbing alcohol and clean the doll. If some any of the cotton ball is left on the doll go over it again with the sander, repeat with cotton ball and alcohol.
  4.  Now take your paint brush and start at the top of the doll and start painting the brows. As you finish move down, next to the lashes. Don't worry if you're not having a brow or lash day just keep moving down till you get some paint on your doll.
  5. China fire. After the kiln has cooled, start painting again.
  6. Paint the parts you didn't do before. China fire again.
  7.  Keep painting until you are satisfied with the color on your doll.
  8. Don't forget to paint or blush the limbs. China fire again. 
  9. Now you are ready to assemble, and sew her a beautiful dress. Finished!
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Desert Rose Dolls
P.O. Box 90781
Tucson, Arizona, 85752-0781
Phone: 1.888.216.5755
Email: desertrosedolls@hotmail.com

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8:00 am
9:00 am
12:00 pm
 Porcelain & Reborn Class
Porcelain & Reborn : Morning class 9:00AM -12:00PM. Evening class 7:00PM-9:30PM. Student works at his/her own pace. Instuctor will work with student when help is needed. Studio has supplies for sale.
10:00 am
11:00 am
12:00 pm
1:00 pm
2:00 pm
3:00 pm
4:00 pm
5:00 pm
 Specialty Classes
  • Pin Cushion Doll
  • Marotte
  • Small Doll Necklace
  • Dry Brushing more Animals
  • Peddler Doll
  • Tiny Fairy Pin
  • Surprise Easter doll